Eid Mubarak

Eid Mubarak all. Another Ramadan has ended and another Eid (complete with traditional pancake breakfast) has come (and now gone)...

Hit the gym and the pool today, such disastrously hot weather here still.

Brother has arrived, will post up details and pics of our trip soon.

Much love and ma'a salama

Ramadan Mubarak to all...

Today (Saturday) is the first day of Ramadan here in Oman. And as with every other year I can remember (for Ramadan anywhere I've been at the time), today is mercifully cooler than yesterday, subha'Allah. There is a sweet breeze, and although the sun is still singing everything it touches, the heat is not quite so oppressive.

Work hours are reduced to 6 hours per day in Ramadan by Ministerial Decree - beautiful! I finished work for the day about 40mins ago and am at home "resting". No one is allowed to eat in public here (I'm led to believe you could actually be arrested) - with the exception of little children - which is definitely a new experience. I'm living in a foodless, waterless world at the moment lol

I'm wondering if I'll have the energy to go swimming this afternoon - it certainly sounds tempting. But I've been invited to an iftaar (fast-breaking meal) and its probably a little rude if I scoff a date, sip some water and run off to the pool. This means that by the time I've actually eaten there won't be much time for swimming once the food settles - unless I want minimal sleep again tonight. Oh the decisions we have to make!

Al-hamdoulillah despite missing suhur (morning meal taken before the fast begins) today I'm not feeling to bad - a little dehydrated but nothing to serious. Going shopping in a couple of minutes for some last minute goodies (plus I need a box of choccies for my lovely host this evening). The down side of all this arriving and spending is that I'm now virtually penniless till payday (ok, so I have A$100 about RO29)... this means no vacuum cleaner, no water dispenser and no more candy purchases! Good thing Ramadan is a cheap month for food!

Much love and Ma'a salama

*~* RAMADAN MUBARAK TO ALL *~*

Losing count of the days.

So today was the first day that was meeting free - which means it was a day to be at work and mostly stare at the wall being that my supervisor is not back from holidays yet and not much else is going on. Oh, all the other new staff went of to get their liquor licenses today - you need a special card to get on the grog here!

Temp timetables came out today - Math (I know, don't laugh), Business and IT. Sounds great! It'll be a first for teaching littlies (Math) which should be a nice change. I'm looking forward to getting myself organised this weekend - feeling very unprepared at the moment.

Headed back to the fabric/tailoring district tonight to drop off some material for some skirts. Also picked up my boxes today which was super exciting - its amazing how much stuff I packed that is just totally unrealistic for here.

Anyway, early start tomorrow so off to beddy-byes.

Much love and Ma'a salama.

Catch up

Touched down in Oman about 4.5 hours ago. Met at the airport, got the visa, picked up the bags and was out. Did the usual and changed some money and bought a SIM - that did take some effort to work out, but, interestingly enough, Oman Mobile’s customer service is available and completely functioning before the sun comes up - I was terribly impressed.

So, where am I? I’m not living at work, I’m across the road, not far, apparently 200m or thereabouts - walk in the heat at your own sweaty peril! So I shall need a car to get to school (I’m not kidding I was told it was necessary). My apartment is huge! Walk in the front door to the hallway, immediately to the right is a small room, bare except for two decaying plants. Next on the right is the first of many bathrooms. On the left is my lounge dining room. Continue on into a kind of “holding” room - I don’t really see any function for this room, maybe as a separate dining? On the left off that room is a rather spacious kitchen - alas the stove is electric, no roti-making for me. Diagonally opposite from the kitchen is the master bed with en suite, and opposite that is a single bedroom with en suite. Space is nice, but then I think about all the cleaning and dusting and the cost of running the AC! Oman is very, very, very HOT and humid. At present I cannot leave my bedroom because I turned the AC off in the rest of the house (being green) and now its a good 5/6 degrees hotter out there, and its sticky! Can’t open the windows, to hot. Cold water faucet is persistently luke warm. I think its the first time I’ve opted to have a cold shower (where there was hot water available, therefore Jordan is excluded). Will post pics of the house when I upload my photos.

So, presently lying under the AC on my bed, blogging about the heat and wondering how on earth I can get internet hooked up by this evening and buy all the things I want (RIGHT NOW) form Carrefour without a car!

Conundrums. Maybe I’ll nap on it.

***End day one***

So my first day in Oman has come to an end. I’m unpacked (except for my invisible boxes) and I’ve started on the “new house top to bottom cleaning” which seems to accompany every move. Went to the supermarket (equiv. of Spinneys in Egypt) and picked up urgent items like disinfectant, bleach and soap. Unfortunately there were no latex gloves so my hands have been destroyed. Al-hamdoulillah.

Lunch was nice, dinner was nice - so were the choccies from my favourite little possums.

I’m feeling terribly tired. Might read a little then sleep - once I finish washing all my new kitchen stuff.

Off to do more shopping tomorrow, hopefully will complete most of the list and find out the prices for the rest... Don’t think there’ll be much money saved this month, but you know what they say... You gotta spend money to make money... or maybe its the other way around. Anyway whatever, I’ve got dishes to wash.

Much love and ma’a salama.

*** Day Two***

Late breakkie this morning followed by tour of the school and some meetings. Afternoon dominated by a trip to City Centre - shopping mall, includes Carrefour - and a blinding headache. Still no internet set up at home - could be a while - and the schools internet is down for a systems upgrade or something. Decided that I am definitely buying a washing machine. My boxes haven’t been delivered yet and I’m running out of clothes - no one was kidding when they said three outfits for one day. The humidity here is shockingly high (90% last week apparently). Hopefully by then end of tomorrow I’ll have a hire car sorted. Thinking I’ll hire until I can work out whether or not to buy. Seems that the comfort of all included insurance and not being responsible for the maintenance/repair of the car in case of issues/accident is a good way to go - potentially long-term, it seems to work out a little more expensive to buy a new car rather than hire. Other alternative is a second-hand, looking into a Jeep... All price dependent of course. Anyway, I am off to bed to nurse the remnants of my blinding headache. Hopefully tomorrow brings significantly less pain.

Much love and ma’a salama

***Sometime Later***

I’ve got my car! *woot* It’s all very exciting, I can now get out and about without bugging people for rides. Just a Nissan something-a-rather, sedan, auto (which makes traveling on the crazy Omani roads a breeze) and its white (not sure of the relevance but you get the idea).

Day before yesterday was a morning meeting to “demystify” Islam, and the afternoon was dominated by the medical check up. Interesting experience. We were bussed to a medical centre about 30mins away to have our chests listened to, eyes checked, blood drawn, pee placed in a cup and a chest x-ray. It took 4 hours. Very long hours, but thankfully I did not faint (I was too busy marveling at how little blood they need to draw here in order to test for HIV compared to home...amazing).

Yesterday was the day for organising Resident cards - pretty much nothing can be done/organised here with out this particular card. First stop was a non-descript building 40mins away. After some time waiting our finger prints and photos were taken. Then it was back to the bus - approximately a 1minute ride - then we decamped into another non-descript building in the same compound. More sitting. More waiting. Finally we are called in. Another photo, finger print scan and this time we had to sign a digital pad. That signing was more difficult than it sounds, you couldn’t see where you’d written, nor could you watch the screen as it occurred. In the end just about everyones signature looked like a poor attempt by a five year old. Forwarded onto another waiting room. We waited. Sat and waited. Eventually names were called, we filed up to get our brand new resident cards and then made our way back to the bus and eventually back home.

That afternoon most people went on an excursion, I didn’t attend, deciding instead to go shopping. So I took my wheels for a spin and headed out to Carrefour to pick up most of the things I hadn’t already, and a bunch of delicious stuff not on the list. I’d like to say my fridge is filled with healthy and delicious food, but unfortunately only the delicious side of the equation is really true.

I’m still not used to the heat. Always so sweaty, its quite horrible. I think I need to drink more water. Still no internet and still no boxes. Hoping for tomorrow for the boxes and perhaps the delivery of my washing machine! I am officially out of clothes - i.e. even being able to re-wear items.

Tonight I headed out to the fabric district after dinner. The plan was to find some fabulous, soft cotton in plain colours and get some skirts made. Turns out that plain cotton is a rare commodity here in Oman - rare as in non-existent! The traffic into Seeb was crazy, bumper to bumper. But the main drag was just fabric shop after fabric shop. Some of the most beautiful hand-embroidered cloth I’ve seen masha’Allah. Went into several, disappointed each time by the lack of plain cotton fabric. Managed to get home with only one (minor) incident - hitting a massive pothole at 70km. I think the car survived. Guess I’ll check the tyres in the morning.

Anyway, after a less than fruitful expedition to the fabric district in Seeb, I shall say goodnight.

Much Love and Ma’a salama

Abu Dhabi

Stepped off the plan and was hit with a big, fat, thick wall of disgusting humidity. Sweating, so gross, still have to go and get on another flight...

Have a tummy ache from the plane food (how unusual no?). Oh how I wish I had a very delicious hotel to slink off to with a powerful shower and a clean, fresh bed!

I haven't slept. So that means in the last three days I've had appx 8 hours of sleep. I'm getting those little moments where you feel so dizzy you think you might just black out. But no, I'm sure I'll be fine, so not to worry.

Anyway, off to the boarding gate for the next flight - if there are screaming babies I may just punch out the window, jump and hope for the best!

Much Love and Ma'a salama

Ok ok, I know I never finished (or even attempted) to write about most of the traveling at the end of the last trip... I'd like to say I was just "too busy" but that would be a big fat lie. I thin kI just like the way it is in memory better than actually writing it all out (ok I'm lazy, happy?).

So the blogging begins afresh. Its a new adventure this time - meaning a new country that I have not yet set foot in (well actually by the time this is posted this small statement will no longer true). Also, apparently this trip is all about becoming an adult, taking responsibility, holding down a real job (it all sounds so terribly un-fun!) so that means my blog will be terribly boring as well - not much happening when you have to go to work everyday! You have been forewarned!

Presently about 3000kms above the water of some ocean that I am not all together familiar with, watching the sunset magically on the horizon which seems so terribly far away and makes it appear as if you could just sail a little boat right on over there and drop off right off the face of the earth into oblivion. Which, right now seems terribly appealing being that the kid in the row next to me has screamed for most the the five hours I have been glued to my (pretty good) seat (exit row, room to move, no one seated next to me!) and has sullied her nappy in the most foul way imaginable not just once, but TWICE! I have lost count of the number of times I have gagged thus far - at least her grampa is nice and told her mum to chuck out her filthy nappies on the other side of the plane when he saw me struggling for breath.

Moving on. Aside from the headache (already downed the “complimentary” panadol), knawing hunger in my belly and the little shit behind me who has thus far not ceased kicking my chair (it is taking EXTRAORDINARY patience and self-control not to flip out) I am well.

Had a little sooky la-la moment when the plane took off, which I think scared the poor flight attendant (who is remarkably good looking), but am now looking forward to arriving (if only because the closer it comes so does my next meal). So, I’ve had my Apple and Potato Salad with Salmon, followed by the Ricotta Tortellini and topped with a rather delicious Tiramisu and only have a hamper service and light meal to look forward to AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH (sorry more squealing from the child). No surprises, traveling back in cattle/scum class is a depressing experience - I just keep dreaming of a la carte service, a lack of children and fresh brewed coffee. I need to come into some serious money - or flyer miles, this is not a long term solution to my traveling needs!

Anyway, first thing I’ll do when I get through customs and find my new accommodation... Shower. Then, maybe, I’ll go for a walk (yes in the 4am-35 degree-heat), apparently its 3km to Carrefour (supermarket) so perhaps I will stroll all the way there. Or not.

Turbulence has arrived and I have to put my bag away (its presently blocking the emergency exit - opps).

I’ll post this when I find an internet connection (preferably a free one - gotta love the ME), and put up some pics of the new digs when I’ve settled in.

Much love and ma’a salama.

Day One...

Went without sleep last night. Picked up at 3am by Dad and the driver. Transported to an amazing hotel. Its like another world – honestly you could forget you were in Cairo... If only you didn’t see the pyramids from your bed in the morning.

My room and its view...

After very little sleep (2 hours maybe), headed off to breakfast, and with time to spare before the driver arrived for the day took a quick dip in the pool – which is sub-zero! After that, quick shower and the driver called to announce his arrival.

Up in the mini-bus we head across the city to the Citadel of Salahudin Ayoubi and the 19th century mosque of Muhammed Ali. From the Citadel we could see out over Cairo – the pollution clouding the skyline, the Mosque of Al-Azhar, the wide expanse of the City of the Dead.

Brief stop at Khan el-Khalili. Originally a stop for passing caravans collecting water as the passed over the desert sands now its a super tourist oriented shopping joint. Pretty much anything can be found in the narrow winding lanes, complete with the customary shopkeeper harassment.

From the Khan we went of to lunch on the Nile which was nice and from there to the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. What a crazy place. There is stuff everywhere – most of it unlabelled. Amazing. Our guide was great, but by the end of it, it was all we could do to keep our eyes open on the way back to the hotel.

21 Days

Egypt is cold this week, very cold. Currently I’m sitting on my couch wearing trackies, thick snow socks, a thermal top, two jumpers and a cap – and I’m still cold. My feet are numb and my nose is starting to run... Whoever told me Egypt was warm even in winter was a big fat liar... Wouldn’t mind having the thermals back that I gave away in Jordan, but at least I still have my Uggs...

Last weekend went shopping for clothes in Giza, which was an interesting experience. Got some good deals on some skirts, so I left happy. After shopping we decided to go eat, but we needed an atm first. So we (the four of us) decided to get an Egyptian motorcycle taxi – let me make this very clear, they are not made for four reasonable sized women.... After having to back in butt first, I ended up on the lap of one of the girls - my own legs hanging out the side of the cab – which if you know anything about Egyptian driving/traffic, you know I am very lucky to still be connected to my dear little legs. Three near misses later – yes on each occasion my legs were almost crushed, first by a bus, secondly by a motocycle, and thirdly by a parked car – we got to the back, and after a brief argument with the driver who wanted us to pay more than we’d agreed because he’d worked out we were foreign we got some money and finally grabbed some food. Now I just need to find a tailor who won’t charge me an arm and a leg to get my skirts taken up...

Other than shopping, my week has been the same as every other week. Class, homework, sleep, class, homework, sleep... you get the picture. Been trying to find a freighting company to get some stuff home, but it is so unbelievably expensive here – more than Jordan even. Oh and I got cornbraids – hurt like hell! Thank God I have white woman hair, if it were a necessity to go through that every week or two I’d probably just shave my head! Does look nice though.

Much Love and Ma’a Salama

Update

Once again its been a while since I’ve written anything here. There are two reasons, the first, is that I don’t have internet at home, and the second is that I don’t really do anything worth mentioning since I’m in class 3-4hours a day (sometimes more) and my weekends are filled with attempting to catch up on all the backward homework... So anyway, I haven’t really done anything of much interest.

I went to the Cairo book fair a couple of weeks ago. Basically a lot of international publishing houses get together and open stores in this big fair ground. The prices are meant to be better than in the normal shops, but I think it was all much the same really. My teacher from the school was kind enough to take me (and speak on my behalf – you know that being foreign thing means you get jacked for cash left right and centre). I got a couple of books, most of what I wanted couldn’t be found unfortunately... Apparently I have to go to Yemen for them! Which is not a bad idea in and of itself... Except that the ticket from Aussie is $4000 – and that’s only to San’a! So I have some stuff to ship back, but not a lot – which is good and bad, good, the price shouldn’t be to bad, bad the cost per kilo will be ridiculously high... sigh.

The only other remotely eventful happening was going hijab shopping. There is a mall here in Cairo which is just hijabs, store upon store of hijabs. I pulled all the hard bargaining moves I know, and generally came up with decent prices – for a foreigner anyway... My friend calls it “white privilege” – apparently my ability to get a better price is based on my “whiteness”, I don’t know if I agree with her, I think it just affects the level of harassment you get really. There was one stage where me and my friend were being followed and surrounded by no less than 10 men all apparently wanting to “sell” us their hijabs – that was not the nicest part of the evening, but it was funny. So anyway, I dropped a fair bit of money there – I may even go back...

So other than hijab shopping and the book fair, nothing much is really happening. Just got back from an Arabic party – yes a party where you are only allowed to speak Arabic and you play super-cool Arabic games like “treasure hunt” and “jeopardy” and “taboo” all in Arabic! And of course there was awesome paki-food and lots of sweets and cake. I met lots of lovely girls to which was nice – I don’t really get to meet people since my class runs right through the middle of the day and afterwards all I want to do is sleep...

And with the mention of that word, I am off to sleep now. For once there are no shabab in the street causing a ruckus so I shall try to get some decent snoozing in.

Much Love and Ma’a Salama

Friday

Went on a little exploration trip today. Started off with a short taxi ride to the citadel where I attended one of the Sultun some-thing-a-rather mosque for Juma’a (Friday) Prayer. The Mosque was amazing – a labrynth of tunnels with rooms that once accommodated scholars and students of knowledge in time past leads to the main prayer area. In the centre of the open-roofed stone courtyard is a functioning wudu (the washing of the body that muslims perform before prayer) fountain. The walls are covered with brilliant calligraphy carved into the stone of the ancient walls that have seen some of the greatest thinkers of Islam sitting against them. Around the courtyard are four large alcoves – now the areas for prayer, they once provided space for scholars from each of the four Sunni schools of legal thought to teach their respective science – in fact the name of each school is inscribed in their alcove. No segregation barrier in sight – just like in the time of the Prophet (saaws) women prayed behind the men in their own alcove. Testament to the dirt and pollution of Cairo, the classic red and white block pattern of Andalus was barely discernable from the rest of the stone wall. I sat to the back, leaned against the cool stone and watched the clouds move across the sky behind the minaret that stands solidly against what is visible of the blue sky through the thick smog.

After prayer we went down to the downtown area and got lunch at a great Lebanese restaurant – Tabouli – near the American Embassy. We took the food and wandered down to the Nile to hire a boat. After some haggling with the operator we were off on the Nile eating our lunch. I was amazed at the disgusting colour of the water – it looked like a watery brown soup, with more trash than I’ve ever seen in a body of water floating in it. The sun was warm and the wind was low – if it wasn’t for the operator blasting his horrible Egyptian pop songs it would have been beautiful.

After lunch we headed off to the Metro (Egypt’s underground rail) and caught a train to Nasser (only one stop, but too far to walk). We rode in the car for women only – don’t ever be fooled into thinking that women have better manners or are less agreeive than men. There is no waiting for people to get out of the carriage when the train pulls in, rather all the women on the platform push each other around in order to force their way through the carriage doors as soon as they open. There is no concept of “if we get on on the right side of the door and you alight from the left there will be no need for us to try to trample each other in order to get on”... Safely on the train (which was not even full, seats were taken but plenty of standing room) we arrived at our stop quickly. Out of the station we were hunting for the hostel that my friend will be staying at from tomorrow with her aunt. Found it checked it out – staff were lovely and it looked clean and neat (Let Me Inn). From there we wandered to a coffee joint where they told us we had to spend a minimum of 20EGP each (one coffee was 7EGP) we got up and found a famous fruit and vegitable market hidden in one of the side streets. I picked up my fruit and veg for a week for the equivalent of A$1.60! AWESOME!!!

Jumped back on the metro and went to Pottery Cafe (most awesomest cafe I’ve been to – rivalling Pattersons Patissarie)! Had a delicious coffee, jumped in a cab and finally got home just as the adhan (call to prayer) was being sounded for Maghreb (sunset prayer) Al-hamdoulillah.

But when I walk through my front door I find that as I was sitting in the taxi returning from my day out, five children aged between 7 and 12 years of age, along with their mother were being obliterated – their father “moderately wounded” – only a short distance away. How do you continue to live when your family is wiped out in the blink of an eye? Would you not be crazed with anger? Lost in grief? How would you rise every morning knowing that everything you loved was gone? I’d say the “G” word but someone would call me “anti-semetic”.
Doesn’t really make one want to discuss the mundane details of life as a student/visitor.

All praise is to you Allah, Lord of the Worlds. And salutations and greetings upon our master Muhammad and upon his family and companions. Ya Allah, grant the innocents of Palestine respite from the oppression under which they suffer and provide for them protection from the brutality of their oppressor. Ya Allah, for those who are wounded grant them wellbeing, for those who have passed on grant them the peace that they could not attain upon this Earth, for those that continue guide them and keep them steadfast. Ya Allah for those who oppress the weak either guide them or humiliate them and give them the recompense of which they deserve. Ya Allah, protect humanity form the baseness of our natures and raise amongst us the just as leaders who will direct towards good for the wellbeing of all.

With Sadness...Much Love and Ma’a Salama

Mogama'

Went to sort out visas on Thursday. Advised to expect total rudeness, a maddening run-a-round, incompetence and a long wait, we armed ourselves with patience and cabbed it to downtown. Entering the building we automatically leave any Arabic we know at the door, we find the floor we need (there are over 20) and make our way though a labriynth of hallways, lines of shabab, and smokiness and finally to “Window 12”. After being ignored for 10 minutes while the employee chats casually with a couple of workers, the employee turns and enquires: Nationality. Not sure if its a question or statement I hold up my passport. She snatches it out of my hand. Demands photos – I say I have them – demands photocopies of my passport – I hold them up. She shoves a form at me and tells me to go. I fill it in and return to the window. I wait a little for her to bother to grace me with her attention. She holds out her hand for my form. Re-opens my passport. Muslim? I reply in the affirmative and she looks at me like I’m a big fat liar. Fathers name. Mothers name. More glaring. She calls over her friend and passes my forms to her. I move over a window. The new lady is NICE! “Window 42” she says – 11EGP. I pay – make sure you have exact change, if you don’t you won’t get anything back no matter how much you hand over for your stamps. Back to “Window 12”. Nice lady has disappeared. Mean lady grunts in my direction. Stamps. I hand them over. Get another – 10 Piasters. Back to the payment window, I pay 1EGP for a 10 Paiester stamp (100 Piasters in 1EGP). Back to “Window 12”. More grunting. Come back at 2PM... ITS 9AM IN THE MORNING!!! How long can it take for you to stick them into my passport. And they CLOSE at 2PM, obviously she thinks I’m a moron, “Window 38” to pick up she grunts. When I try to confirm she glares and ignores me.
We wander off to a coffee shop nearby and sit and drink coffee and study.

After two hours we return to the mogama’. We walk the labyrinth again and arrive at “Window 38”. Nationality. Again its not a question. She pulls my passport from the bottom of the pile and shoves it at my face. I smile. Thank her. Get the hell out.

Sounds nasty, but that is an excellent experience. It can take hours, serious rudeness and abuse. That is what you call extracting an Egyptian visa with ease! Al-hamdoulillah I am happy I won’t need to do it again. I miss the manners that exist in the west – they are sorely lacking all over the middle east unfortunately.

Much Love and Ma’a Salama

Two weeks gone...

So two weeks gone and finally settling in properly...

It seems I’ve developed a nasty form of insomnia... I get tired, I go to bed, I lie for hours (seriously last night I went to bed at 9.30pm and didn’t sleep till after 3am), and I never fall asleep... I spoke to a couple of the girls here and they said its normal. Apparently the pollution/air quality is so bad it messes with your sleep, the girls said it takes about 6 weeks to get used to it. Which is half my time here – so by the time I get to sleeping properly I’ll be going home... I started exercising (walking regularly ( in an attempt to get my body super tired for sleep), but as yet it hasn’t worked. I just come home coughing and sneezing blackness – super gross!

Yesterday I took my first microbus. It looks like this:

And normally there is about 20 or more people crammed into what is a space only meant for 14 including the driver and his mates! Al-hamdoulillah the one we managed to hop on was only half full so we got seats. Tonight however was a completely different story. We decided we would go to Ma’adi (an area close to the Nile – about 20km from home) for dinner, and to get there we would take a micro to the station and get the train. All up such a trip would cost each of us 3 ganayh (less than A$1) rather than the taxi that is 25 ganayh (if you bargain well enough to get the basic “foreigner” fare for the trip). Anyway the micros were all so full that we didn’t even want to contemplate wedging ourselves into the sea of bodies that flowed out the door of the bus even while in motion. In fact one guy almost died in front of our eyes as he rode the micro hanging out of the door – his hand slipped and he was hanging on by the other trying not to let his legs hit the road. Somehow he managed to balance and someone stuck their hand through the window from the inside to hold him so he didn’t fall again. Scary. Anyway, after seeing multiple full micros we decided we’d rather grab a taxi and pay the extra. So we arrived in Ma’adi but the taxi driver dropped us off at the wrong place so we had to walk some to find my flatties sister. Finally we got to where we were meant to be. We purchased out Britta Bottle (those water purifier things), had dinner, had ice cream (baskin robins) and headed home – to tired to be bothered with bargaining, we paid far to much but got home in one piece (surprisingly considering the way the driver was negotiating the road). Really the purpose of the trip was the purifier, but we decided dinner was a necessity and I spotted the ice cream joint out the window of the restaurant... Good food.

So I have class in the morning. Its going well. I do 3.5 hours a day four days a week, but am increasing it to 5hours a day (possibly 5 days a week) from this week or next week insha’Allah. All my classes here are one-on-one and conducted entirely in Arabic since my teachers know next-to-no English...but of a change. I’ve realised how little I can communicate and comprehend. My teacher laughs when I give her a detailed grammatical analysis of a sentence (about the only thing I can do coherently in Arabic) but can’t tell her what it means... I really need to work on my vocabulary – but that’s nothing I didn’t know already..

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Still not used to being without internet at home – but I am replacing the time I would spend on it with tv. Not good. TV here is different to home... very different. Here you see everything, when people die the news doesn’t show you the sanitised shot of a bunch of people covered by white sheets, instead you see the bloodied, burnt, twisted and mutilated bodies. Nothing is sanitised. From the half severed heads hanging to bodies by a sliver of skin shown close-up to the little children with arms/legs missing, blood gushing and snapped bones visible. It’s sickening. Often I can’t watch the news, it’s just too painful. If the rest of the world saw what you see here on the news, there’s no way people would allow what is going on to continue. In the “West” we treat our pets better. Subhan’Allah it is really insanity.

Other than the news and the insomnia I’m loving Egypt – such a difference from Jordan, subhan’Allah.

Hope you are all well.

Much love and Ma’a salama